Why Try Whole Hog BBQ at Home?
For us, whole-hog barbecue is the ultimate expression of BBQ. The goal is to smoke a pig from snout to tail, transforming the entire animal into tender pulled pork. It may sound intimidating, but with some preparation, patience, a big enough smoker, and an empty fridge, it’s absolutely doable at home.
Our first whole hog was a real adventure. The pig weighed over 60 kg (132 lbs), and we cooked it in a makeshift pit we built from concrete blocks. It was such a success that repeating the experience quickly became a priority on our to-do list.
When we got our hands on a Weber SmokeFire this summer, we knew it was time again. With a cooking area of 90 x 44 cm (35 x 17 in), it was just begging for a whole hog challenge.
Choosing the Right Hog for Backyard BBQ
What size hog is best for backyard barbecue?
You can order a suckling pig from almost any butcher these days, but at 9–10 kg (20–22 lbs), they’re too lean and small for authentic whole hog BBQ. We wanted something closer to 25 kg (55 lbs). These pigs are just big enough to have developed a good balance of meat and fat.
We sourced our pig from Heyde Hoeve, who breed Duroc hogs. Those are heritage breeds with an excellent meat-to-fat ratio. That fat is crucial. It not only adds flavour, but also protects the meat during the long, slow cook.
Because this pig had just the right amount of fat, we didn’t inject it with extra liquid. If you’re unsure about yours, you can inject some brine without doing any harm.
Prepping and Butterflying the Hog
How do you butterfly a whole hog for BBQ?
Our pig arrived a day before the cook and fit perfectly in an empty fridge. The only thing left was butterflying it. Butterflying involves sawing through the backbone, allowing the hog to be laid open flat.
To do this, you need a sharp knife, a clean handsaw, and a sturdy table covered with plastic or garbage bags. Cut into the skin at the neck and tail to expose the backbone. Then saw carefully along it until the hog opens up like a book. Stop before cutting through the skin, because you want it to remain intact.
We had already requested the pig without head or trotters to maximise space on the grill. Even so, the hog was a little too wide, so we trimmed part of the front legs to make it fit.
Once opened, I removed the membranes covering the meat. On the ribs, use a dull breakfast knife to lift the membrane, slide a finger in, and peel it off, just as you would with spare ribs. For the rest, use a sharp fillet knife. Do this prep early in the day to keep the hog as cool as possible.
Rodney Scott–Inspired Dry Rub (Our Variation)
For seasoning, we based our rub on pitmaster Rodney Scott’s award-winning whole-hog recipe, making slight adjustments to suit our taste.
Ingredients:
- 1 ½ parts kosher salt
- 1 part cayenne pepper
- ½ part MSG (monosodium glutamate)
- 1 part chilli flakes
- ¾ part coarse black pepper
- 1 part paprika
- 1 part brown sugar
For our 25 kg (55 lb) hog, we used approximately 550 grams (just over 1 lb) of this rub, which was enough for an even layer across the entire carcass. As a rule of thumb, count on 30–35 g (½ oz per lb) per kilo of hog.
Scatter the rub evenly over the entire hog. Score the skin around the hams and shoulders to allow the seasoning to penetrate deeper into the meat.
Setting Up the Pellet Smoker (SmokeFire or Similar)
Can you cook a whole hog on a pellet smoker?
Absolutely, but you need to set it up properly.
The Weber SmokeFire is different from other pellet grills in that it comes without a drip plate. So before laying the hog on the grate, we place drip trays on the flavourizer bars to catch fat and prevent flare-ups. We do this because stray grease near the firebox can ignite, and the trays prevent that.
We filled the hopper with beech pellets. In the US, tradition says you should use the wood native to your region. In the Netherlands, that’s beech, which gives a mild smoke flavour that pairs well with young pork.
The hog was placed on the grill with the shoulders positioned over the hotter side. We do this because the extra fat there can handle more heat than the leaner back side (the hams). Set the smoker to 120°C (250°F). Temperatures between 100–150°C (212–302°F) are suitable, but below 100°C (212°F), there is a risk of bacterial growth, and above 150°C (302°F), the outside cooks too quickly.
Insert probes into both a shoulder and a ham, close the lid, and relax. For the first six hours, you don’t need to touch a thing and let the smoker do its thing.
Mop Sauce for Whole Hog BBQ
Do you need mop sauce for whole hog BBQ?
In the Carolinas, whole hog is always paired with a mop sauce. A mop sauce is a thin, vinegar-based sauce that is brushed on the meat during cooking. It adds tangy flavour and helps keep the pork moist.
Mop Sauce Ingredients (our variation):
- 1 litre (1 qt) white vinegar
- Juice of 1 lemon
- 30 gr (2 tbsp) black pepper
- 30 gr (2 tbsp) cayenne pepper
- 1 tbsp chilli flakes
- 60 g (4 tbsp) sugar
After about 6 hours, when the meat reaches an internal temp of around 70°C (160°F), brush the hog with mop sauce every 30 minutes or until it’s all used up.
Managing the Stall and Protecting the Skin
Do you wrap a whole hog during the stall?
At around 65–70°C (149–160°F), the internal temperature stalls. Moisture evaporates from the meat’s surface, cooling it down like sweat. With the addition of mop sauce, the stall can drag on longer.
Unlike pork shoulders, you don’t wrap a whole hog in foil because you want the meat to stay in contact with the smoke as long as possible. Instead, raise the smoker temp to 150°C (300°F) to speed up evaporation and push through the stall.
You want to protect areas closer to the heat, such as the meat on the shoulders and legs, with foil if they cook too quickly and start to dry out.
How Long Does Whole Hog BBQ Take?
How long should you smoke a whole hog?
Plan on 10–12 hours. Our previous 60 kg (132 lb) hog took 10 hours, but this 25 kg (55 lb) one surprised us by taking longer. Don’t lock guests into a strict mealtime because BBQ takes the time it takes.
We pulled ours off when the shoulders hit 94°C (201°F) and the hams 90°C (194°F). Unlike single cuts of pulled pork, whole hog is juicy and tender at slightly lower temps, because it is cooked in the mop sauce.
Pulling and Serving the Meat
How much pulled pork do you get from a whole hog?
Wearing insulated gloves, pull the meat straight from the carcass. Expect to keep about 60% of the hog’s weight as pulled pork. We ended up with 17 kg (37 lbs) from our 25 kg (55 lb) pig.
Mix meat from different areas, such as shoulder meat, rib meat, and hams. Each has its own fat and texture, and combining them gives the best balance in texture and flavour. Sprinkle a little extra rub into the pile of pulled pork for more flavour.
We froze a portion for later use, but served most of it within two days. The neighbourhood enjoyed this pulled pork piled on soft buns with coleslaw and homemade BBQ sauce. This way, 16 people polished off 8 kg (17 lbs) of pork in under an hour.
Storing and Reheating Leftover Pulled Pork
Freeze portions in vacuum bags or airtight containers. To reheat, warm gently with a splash of apple juice or stock to keep the meat juicy.
